Buttonhole-sewing machine.



F. SALVATO. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 12.1915- Patented Oct. 31,1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

Inv enter. Fm nk Sch/0T0 F. SALVATO. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 12. 19l5.

Patented 1b.

3 SHEETS-SH n lnvehmr;

Frank Sulwfin by $61M F. SALVATO.

BUTT ONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

MAYI2. i915.

APPLICATION FIL ED Patented Oct. 31, 1916.

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j earns lee rarer onto.

FRANK SALVATO, 01E BOSTOIJ, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, (313 BOSTON; MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF TEAINE.

BUTTONHOLE-SEVIING MACHINE.

mosses,

Application filed May 12, 1915.

senting like parts.

Thisinvention relates to buttonhole sewmg machines and has for its ob]ect to provide a novel sewing machine of this type to produce a buttonhole having a purl eifect on the upper face of the goods as well as on the under face on which the loops of thread are interlocked with each other. T secure this end herein by providing means for concatenating a purl thread with the portions of the needle thread that are exposed on the upper face of the goods, said purl thread being twisted about the portions of the needle thread that connect the successive loops. This result is secured by means of vibrating purl thread guide which coop crates with the needle to lay the purl thread during the format-ion of each stitch in such a. position that when the needle is given its penetrating thrust it, will lay the needle thread over the purl thread, said purl thread guide operating between successive needle thrusts to carry the purl thread over the needle thread.

My invention is applicable to buttonhole sewing machines of various types.

In order to give an understanding of my invention T have illustrated it herein. as it might be applied to a huttonhole sewing machine of the Reece type, such, for instance, as is shown in United States Patent No. 862,238, dated August 6. 1907, but I wish to state. that the invention is capable of being applied to other louttonhole sewing machines.

In the accompanying; drawings, Figurel is a side view of a buttonhole sewing machine having a construction similar to that illustrated in the above-mentioned United States Patent No. 862,238, and having my improvements applied thereto; Q'is a view showing" the needle and purl thread guide in front elevation and showing the lower portion of the head of'the sewing machine in section; Fig. 3 is a sectional View on the line 00 -00, Fig. i; Fig. t IS a section Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented ilct. 31, 11.91 6.

Serial No. 27,668.

on the line ;1 1 Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is a section on the line (Z -(L, Fig. l; Fig. 6 is a front view of the looper mechanism which co operates with the needle in forming the stitch; Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged diagrammatic views showing the character of the stitch formed with the sewing machine and the steps in the operation thereof.

The sewing machine herein illustrated is of that type in which the buttonhole stitch 18 formed from a single needle thread by means of the usual reciprocating needle situated'above the work and looper mechanism below the work, said looper mechanism 00- operating with the needle to take each loop of needle thread and position it so that upon the next penetrating thrust the needle will pass therethrough thereby enchaining or concatenating the successive loops of needle thread with each other.

Inasmuch as the main features of the sewing machine herein illustrated are similar to that shown and described in the abovementioned United States Patent No. 862,238, it will not be necestary to enter into a detailed description of the machine as the following summarized brief description thereof when taken with the above-mentioned patent will suffice to give to anyone skilled in the art an understanding of the invention.

The needle 1 of the sewing machine is sustained by the usual needle bar 2 which is mounted for reciprocation in the head portion of the frame 4:. This needle bar not only has a vertical reciprocating mo tion, but also has alateral movement so that upon. one thrust of the needle it will pass from one side to the other of the goods at the edge of the buttonhole and at the next thrust will pass through the goods at a distance back from the edge of the buttonhole equal to the length of the depth stitch, as set forth in said patent. To permit of this the needle bar reciprocates through a ball-and-socket bearing 5 situated at the upper end of the head 3 which permits of a lateral swinging movement thereof, said needle bar passing through a bearing memher 6 sustained on the underside of the head 3, as will he'presently described, and which has a vibrating movement in timed relation with the stitchforming' operation. The needle bar is given its vertical reciprocation through a lever 7 pivoted to the frame 4 at Fin. 2.

head 120 will he depressed. bar makes two reciprocations at each rota- .as shown in Fig; 3 while during the other and actuated bv an eccentric 9 which has rigritl therewith a gear 10 that meshes with gear 11 on the driving" shaft 12. the latter being: ope 'ated from any suitable source of power. The gearing 10, 11 is a. two-to-one gearing so that the needle bar will make two reciprocations for each rotation of tho shalt 12.

The laterallv-movable bearing member 6 through which the lower end of die needle bar 2 passes is received in a housing 80 that is rotatahlv mounted in the lower end at the head 3, said housing being provided with a hollow stem 90 which is journaled in the lower end of the-head and is held in position therein by a lock nut 100. Slidablv mounted in the hollow stem 90 is a sleeve 11.1 which is formed at its lower end with a tla-npge'or head. 120 that isacted upon by springs l-lwithin the housing 80. which springs tend to force the head upwardly. This head 120 provided with a downwardly-exteiuling cam projection llwhich is adapted to engage the inclined face 15 ot the bearing block (.3 so that downward movement of the cam incinher l-l will force the block (3 to the right. Fig. '3. The housing (all is provided with an opening 16 through which the end (if the bearing: block (3 extends and said bearing block is acted upon by a spring;- 1T confined within a retainer "Z8 and which tends i'n'n'n'ially to move the hearng block to the left Fig. 3. The spring 17. theretore, is the instrumentalitv which moves the block (3 with. the needle bar laterally inone direction when the sleeve 111 and h ad 120 are elevated. and the cam finger H is the instrumentalitv which moves the hlock i3 and needle bar .2 laterallvin the opposite direction against the action of the spring 17 when the sleevelll and head 1.20 are depressed. The movements of the sleeve .11 and head 1'20 are controlled lo a lever 1S pivoted at 19 to the fram and actuated by a cam 20 on the sha ft 12 so that at each rotation of the shaft 1; the sleeve 111 and Since the needle tion of the shaft'lZ. it will follow that at alternatepcnetrating thrusts of the needle the bearing block a andneedle bar will he.

at the right-hand limit of their movement,

thrusts of the needle they will be at the left hand lnnitcot their movement as shown in I Th s vib 'atnig" movement of the needle causes the alternate needle thrusts to made at the edge of the buttonhole and the ,other thrusts to be made at a distance back from the edge, all as described in the ilbOYG-llllltlOIlQCl patent.

Cooperating with'the needle are two loopers 21 and 22 with their looper s readers23 and A. These loopers are carried by an oscillating block or carrier 25 which oscillates about a. shaft fdo and is (taint-acted by a liula' 2'7 with a lever p oiled at. 5) to a which is rotatahl mounted it rame. 31. of the :smvinge' machine.

' Th 28 is connected by a 'ronncction to a dle 33 which in turn is conuectci'l to an tuated by a lever Bl pivoted at; E3 and nectcd by a link. 36 to an actuating which is actuated by a cam 3 on thr This mechanism sciwes to rihrai' oscillate the bloclt or carrier thus h ing; the. loopers alternately into ElUtn tion to enter the loops of needle tl'iread. cach looper when it enters its loop o i. lllflln l thread cooperating with its 'looper sprciulcr 1-1) to spread the loop and carr it. into a. pow?- tion to he entered by the needle on the no t. thrust thereof. Fora more full and complete description oi the abovcuieuiioued parts reference ma v be had to said latcuiz No. 862.238.

The concatenation of the needle thread loops 'iesulting from the aliore-dcscribed mechanism is shown somewhat diagramath :allv in T and "From which it will he :iil seen that the alternate thrusts oi the noodle pass a loop of needle thread 3 'roni tau; side to the other of the fabric at or adiac m; the edge l0 of the liutionholc. while on otho" thrusts of the needle :1 loop of needle thrca ll is passed through the goods at ailif-itaoce back from the edge -l-(). The loopcr mecha nism takes: each loop of needle thread and positions it so that the next succeeding: lo: 1 is rats-sod thcrethroun'h and. thus the hi 42 ot the needle thread loops which c the next succeeding loop are all situated on the under side (it the l'a iric. these lug-ri e: ot the loops giving to the stitch a purl e 'i'cct, on said under side of the fabric. (in the apper side of the fabric will appear the por tions 4.: ol? the needle thread which connect, the successive loops.

ln order to Q'lYO a so-callcd purl a 'ipoarance to the stitch on the upper side of the tab 'ic. I have provided means for concaic nati-ng a purl tl11*:ltl ll with thrportions 45 of the needle thread. this purl thread i in r twisted oncc about each of (he poifiioua if of the HL'PQt'llQ tin-ad. 'll' end aired by means of a purl thread guid i which. is associated with the ncedle'h: and operated'to lay the purl thread it so that at ach penetrating: thrust. of the u adle. the portion l5 oi the needle. thread will he laid our the purl thread.

In the illustrated embodiment oi the intention this purl thread guide 43 is pro vided with thread-guidi n a pcrturcs through which the purl thr'ad til' extends and is pivotallv connected to the housing; 8t) hy means at a pivotal. stud @143. This guide 41 is given its vibrating movement. to position properly the purl thread at each stitch. in, the needleebar-vihrating niechanisnn so it ii the vibrating movement of the purl thread guide slid-is in timed relation with that of the needle bar. While various devicesfor accomplishing this may be provided, I have herein shown a simple construction which includes a projection or finger l7 extending from the upper end of .the guide 4'3 and in position to be engaged by a laterallyextending projection 48 secured to the head 120, said projection operating through a slot l9 in the housing 80. The purl thread guide 43 is acted upon by a spring 50 which tends to swing it into the position shown. in Fig.

2, said spring being connected at one endto a pin 51 extending from the guide and being connected at the other end to a pin 52 secured to the housing 80.' 1th this construction it will be seen that at each downward movement of the sleeve 111 and head 120 the purl thread guide ldwill be moved to the right into the position shown in Fig. 3 by the engagement of the projection 4:8

with the finger 47, and during this same time the needle bar 2 will be moved to the right. When the sleeve 111 is elevated the spring 50 will throw the purl thread guide to the left into the position shown in Fig. 2 and the spring 17 will move the needle bar 2 to the left. Ihe purl thread guideis so situated that at each thrust of the needle the needle willp ass-back of the purl thread as shown. in Figs. 7 and 8, which illustratesquite nearly the operation of the guide 43 in laying the purl thread. Fig. 7 shows the needle 1 making its penetrating thrust at the edge 4E0 of the fabric, theneedle at this time being in a position illustrated in Fig. 3. At the same time the guide 43 is carried into its right hand position beyond the needle 1 and the purl thread 4d is so positioned that the needle will pass back thereof and will lay the. portion 45 of the needle thread over the purl thread. As the needle is elevated the purl thread guide 43 is swung to the left into the position shown in Figs.

2 and 8, thus carrying the purl. thread over the portion 45 of the needle thread which has "just been laid, .and when the needle makes its next thrust, as shown. in Fig. 8, it will pass back of the purl thread and will lay the portion Q5 of needle thread over the purl thread. When the needle is elevated again the purl thread guide 43 moves back into the position shown in Fig. 7, thus carrying the purl thread over the portion 45 of needle thread and in. position to have the needle thread laid over it at the next pene' trating thrust of the needle. The result is tha the purl thread will be twisted about the portions 45 of needle thread, and when the purl thread is drawn tight, it will give a purl appearance to the buttonhole stitch on the upper side of the fabric.

Inthe sewing machine herein illustrated the looper 21 is constructed to carry a loofper vtioned Patent No. 862,238.

thread 60 which is concatenated with the 'loops of needle thread on the under side of the goods to augment the purl appearance of the buttonhole stitch on said side of the goods, all as described in theabc v'e-men.-

a laterally-shiftable. element mounted in said head and through which the needle bar extends a vertically-movable sleeve mounted in said head and having provision for movingsaid laterallyshiftable element 1aterally, a vibratable purl thread guide mounted on the head, and means to'actuate said guide by movement of said sleeve.

i2. Ina buttonholesewing machine, the combination with'a needle and its needle bar, of means to reciprocate said needle, a lat- .erally-shiftable bearing member through which the needle bar extends, an actuating member movable in a. direction parallel to the reciprocations of the needle bar for giving lateral. movement to said bearing mem- .ber, a vibratory purl thread guide, and

means to actuate said guide by theniovement of the actuating member.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame having a head,

'of a needle bar mounted for reciprocation in said head, a bearing; member slidably mounted laterally in said head and through which the needle bar extends, an-actuating member mounted in said head for vertical reciprocating movement, means to give lateral movement to the bearing member by movement of said actuating member, and a. purl thread. guide pivoted to said head and actuated by said actuating member.

It will thus be 4:. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with a needle and its needle bar, of means to reciprocate the needle bar, 7

a'laterally-shiftable bearing member through which the needle bar extends, a spring acting on said bearing member and tending to move it in one direction, an actuating mem ber movable .in a direction parallel to the reciprocations of the needle bar for givinglateral' movement to said bearing member in the opposite direction, a vibratory purl thread guide, and means to actuate said guide by the movement of the actuating member.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with a mesh bar of means to rempmmr 0 and its neudie e and imudle bar,

a lateraHy-shiftab1e bearing mmnbvr through which the needle bar rXtends, member morable 111 a direc the reciproczitions or the no nu actuating IOIL parallel (0 mile bar 1012 giving' lateral 'movement to said bearing 1nemher, a Vibraiory purl threa (1 guide, a spring acting on said guide and tending in one direction, and means to guide in the opposite direction merit of the actuating member.

In testimony whereof, I have name to this specification.

to mow in mm; said 10 by lllOYQ- FRANK SA LVATO. 

